End of contract treat myself was a short trip to Zanzibar for a bit of R&R. This time I decided to try Nungwi right at the tip of the island. Here you can see the sunset and the sunrise.
One of the reasons I wanted to return to the island was to return to Mnemba island to do some snorkelling. I had been earlier this year and was blown away by the amount and variety of fish on the reef there so the first thing I did was book a tour for the following morning.
I was pleasantly surprised that it was $30 rather than the $40 I paid last time. However it wasn’t long after we set off across the bay that I realised why. The only service you get on this trip is two young men driving you in a small boat to the reef, letting you swim for a bit and then driving you back.
Last time at least we got kit, wet suits, a guide and some lunch. As we approached the island we could see a huge amount of tourist boats on the sand bank and the reef and some nearer the mainland. We also headed towards the mainland.
Then we could see why they had gathered there. Several fins appeared above the water in a arc and then disappeared below. We picked up speed and headed towards the dolphins. So did the other boats and then we were in a dolphin hunt.
Around 12 boats were chasing the dolphins. As soon as fins were spotted, all the boats changed direction and sped towards them. Jump! Jump! the young captain shouted as we drew parallel. I jumped. I saw the dolphins and then they dived and disappeared again.
We did this a couple of times and then gave up and went to the reef. There I counted 49 tourist boats and most of their passengers in the water. There were more humans than fish!
The sandbank was the same, hordes of tourists splashing around in the waves. I left Mnemba with a feeling of sadness. How is it possible to balance tourism with nature in Zanzibar. Last year things were difficult for people working in tourism. Only Russians and Eastern Europeans came and lots of places closed and workers laid off. So I understand that there is now a need to claw back business.
There has to be a better way of doing tourism here than chasing dolphins and jumping almost on top of a mother and her calf so you can say “I’ve swum with dolphins”.
I don’t have the answer to this but it makes me sad to have been part of it. No more Mnemba snorkelling for me.