The day I arrived in Kilwa I had the beach to myself. The next evening as the sun was getting low in the sky the beach started filling up with people.
Before long the sun had gone and the beach was alive with women in their most colourful flowing robes, young girls with make-up and fresh hair. Villagers had taken BBQs to the beach and were roasting corn, kebabs and the usual chicken and chips.
Music drifted along the beach and children ran around screaming and running in the shadow water. As far as I could see I was the only white person on the beach. I had been warned by a policeman the day before that I should not go on the beach as I was sure to get my stuff stolen. I am more trusting and am not afraid of mixing in groups of strangers. Quite the opposite – I love to be in groups of strangers.
I was the only one staying at the hotel who ventured onto the beach and took part in the celebrations. I cannot believe people living in Dar are so nervous about walking along a beach full of locals. It’s akin to saying “I don’t trust you all to be on the beach the same time as me”.
So as they hid on the terrace of the hotel I wandered along the beach smiling to people, waving at the children and taking photos. Nobody showed any hostility. On the contrary everyone was very welcoming. This was Eid after all, a religious celebration.
What I hadn’t expected was for this beach invasion to be repeated the following night as well. Kilwa is a friendly place, despite what anxious people might say, or what the local policeman said.
I believe if you’re friendly and move confidently and do not have your valuables on show, the risk of anything negative happening to you is very low.