I had a few days to spare while in Kigali and decided that Ruhengeri would be a good choice for a short trip – only a couple of hours away on the bus. I had done far too much bus travel in East Africa in recent days so didn’t want another long cramped journey.
There were many buses at the main chaotic bus station in Kigali and I chose a bus which was almost full and therefore leaving soon. The scenery to Ruhengeri was stunning and for the first time I got a look at the extent of the mountains in Rwanda.
I hadn’t appreciated that it was such a mountainous country. And whenever there was a small parcel of flat land the locals had squeezed in a football pitch with sticks for posts.
There is no land which is not cultivated in Rwanda – every slope had been terraced. The bus was cramped and took on more people than I thought was entirely safe but after two hours we were all tipped out safe sound in Rughengeri.
What a beautiful place – not the town itself, but you are surrounded by dormant volcanoes making it feel like you are in an ancient amphitheatre. I had been advised to try Kingfisher Journeys and so eventually managed to speak to someone who could take me on a canoe down the river.
There were dozens of species of birds on the river, such beautiful colours.
There were also locals who were diving and swimming along the banks. On several occassions they chased the boat and we had to paddle like crazy to get away from them. My guide laughed it off but I wasn’t that keen on being chased in the water by people wanting money.
He promised that I would not get wet as I didn’t have a change of clothes but he took me down some rapids and I got soaked. Apart from the rapids the river was slow flowing and very peaceful.
My guide dropped me off at my AirBnb afterwards but I didn’t have any small notes to give as a tip and he didn’t have change for what I had so I felt a bit mean. I think he probably expected a tip but I apologised and he was gracious.
In the evening I half expected the AirBnb hosts to invite me into their house (I was in the garden!) but they didn’t, so I had to walk to the main road and then try to find somewhere to eat.
As I ate the only thing I could afford – a plate of chips – the heavens opened and I had to seek shelter there watching a premiership match.
Eventually the rain subsided and I walked back to the house.
At the point where the route leaves the main road there was a bunch of local women heading in the same direction carrying stuff on their heads.
They had no torch and when I turned on the torch on my mobile phone, they hurried to me and walked with me down the dark wet lane. One even held my hand, afraid I was going to leave her deserted there with no light to find her house.