Everyone seems to have heard about Sherlock Holmes here. And when you mention the name their faces light up. The whole place has gone Sherlock mad. In fact I have a friend in Nanjing who went to the UK for a holiday specifically to see the home of the fictional sleuth.
69 million people have supposed to have watched the BBC drama online even though it is banned by the authorities here.
I have recently finished reading the complete Sherlock Holmes adventures volume one and although I can see the allure, it’s not just the films the Chinese love, it seems to be the whole idea of the man.
A few days ago as I was still waiting for the return of water in my taps, I stumbled upon the Sherlock Holmes cafe. I was curious (and hungry) and so went inside and immediately found myself in a Oxford Circus souvenir shop.
It was as if someone had taken everything they associate with the UK and crammed it all together in a few rooms. The walls, floors and furniture screamed Britishness from the Union Jack cushions to the old typewriter, collection of pipes (which you could purchase), red telephone box, post box and even two armchairs on either side of a fireplace.
‘Only in China’ I thought – it’s enough to bring a cheer to anyone. It’s not enough to place some tastefully selected items to give a sense of Sherlock Holmes and 221B Baker Street but this place rammed it down your throat. There’s something nice though about ‘over the top’ decor and I smiled.
I sat down by the fireside (not real) and on ordering a avocado salad (light on avocado and heavy on salad!) I was given my receipt in the ribbon of a bowler hat which was placed on my table. Not that there was much call for keeping track of customers as there was only one other table occupied. Nonetheless it was a nice touch. The salad was OK – not overdressed which is a constant source of irritation in China. However I passed up the opportunity to have a cup of Earl Grey tea which at £6 was more than my salad.
Now don’t get me wrong, I like cats. Mostly I like cats when they’re on the floor and occasionally on the sofa or my lap but I don’t want to see one sitting on a table at which I am expected to eat.
For a one-off experience I think the Sherlock Holmes is a bit of fun in a similar way to a visit to Thames Town but on a smaller scale. It’s what the Chinese must think our houses and towns are like.