By the time we reached Kizimkazi on Zanzibar mainland we were all hungry and desperate for a shower. Several of our group were suffering from sunburn and a couple of people just wanted to go to sleep.
We spotted the cats lined up on the beach as we approached land. They had sped past us earlier with their razor sharp hulls and bright sails. The tide was high as we arrived and the cats were lined up on the beach. The sun was quickly setting behind us. It never fails to amaze me that the sun sets so quickly in the tropics. Blink and you will miss it.
The dinghy picked us up from CQ and we headed, like an overloaded boat full of refugees crossing the Aegean Sea. The rooms were fairly basic and all had outside showers and toilets – I have never quite got used to these things.
Luckily I had water although other cabin were lacking. The lack of tourists seemed to have made the owners a little relaxed about maintenance as there were multiple problems in almost every room. I was happy to give my neighbour use my shower.
The meal came eventually to appease our aching stomachs. We were all hoping for a big feast and an early night. In the end what we got was a small dinner and an early night!
to add insult to injury there wasn’t even a single small bottle of water in the room and I had to go to the bar and buy one. All the prices were quoted in dollars which makes you realise that you are at a honeymoon destination. The beer was nearly 8,000/= three times the price I am used to paying.
The following morning I went for a walk through the little village on Kimimkazi which was surprisingly tidy and clean (relative to other villages in Africa, not relative to European villages). Most of the houses were made of wattle and daub with some more substantial structures made of concrete bricks.
Villagers were friendly and I’m happy to report no children or mothers asking for money – I always fear that when I stop to chat to people, they will ask me for money but it didn’t happen.
Reports of a beautul mosque were overstated. Yes there is a fantastically old mosque there but it was a rectangular whitewashed building having no signs that it was anything but a windowless warehouse. It was only the historic monument signs at its door which identified it as a mosque.
Back at the lodge it was time to get on board CQ again. The tide had gone out very quickly and it was no longer possible to swi from the beach. I donned my mask and snorkel, walked out as far as I could before it was deep enough to swim and then swam the short distance to the boat with my head down looking at the coral, with its bright red starfish, fields of kelp and a million sea urchins. I was glad to have my sandals on.
We were on our way home now and even though we set off before the cats, they sped p`st us on the starboard and port and beat us back to the yacht club.
I had thought maybe by next year I could train on the cats and maybe take part in the race but after I saw how difficult it was, how many times the things capsize, the enormity of the journey, I decided that it probably isn’t going to happen.